The Chickamauga Battlefield. It is a January day, the leaves are dead. The sky looks like dull aircraft aluminum.
This U.S. national park sits in the northwest corner of Georgia, at the base of Lookout Mountain. Technically, we are in Fort Oglethorpe, Georgia. But most people will tell you this is Chattanooga.
The visitor’s center looks like a Greek-Revival mansion with big columns and a gracious porch. If it weren’t for the Columbiad cannons parked out front, you’d never guess this was a Civil War memorial.
Inside the welcome center are tourists. It’s a weekend. And people visit national parks on weekends. There are different languages being spoken all around me.
The clerk in the giftshop tells me Chickmauga is an international tourist hotspot.
“I’ve probably met people from every country,” the clerk says. “You can always spot the foreigners, they’re the ones who say please and thank you.”
I meet a couple from France. They appear to be having a marital argument in rapid-fire French. The female of the couple asks if I am American.
I tell her yes, I am. She asks if I can settle their argument.
“Was Elvis from California?” she says. “My husband says he was.”
Far be it from me to interject into a matrimonial spat. But duty calls. “No, ma’am,” I say. “Elvis was not from California.”
She shoves her husband and says, “See? I told you he was from Milwaukee.”
We learn a lot on our tour. The American Civil War, a ranger tells us, is the most written about subject in the world, second only to writings about Jesus. There are throngs of books, monographs and dissertations written about this subject. Daily.
To give you an idea of what that means: There is approximately one book or dissertation written about the Civil War for every 5 people who died in the war itself.
Chickamauga turns out to be your typical National…