The first time I ever had one of Wilma Dean Jacobs’ cakes, I was a boy. I was redheaded. I was chubby. I was a connoisseur of refined sugar products.
In our town, there was only one place that sold Miss Dean’s seven-layer cakes. It was the little gas-station convenience store up the street from my house. The Happy Store.
I think it was a Chevron.
It would go like this: Your mother would send you to the Happy Store before special family occasions, such as birthdays, baby christenings, parole-release dates.
You’d ride your bike to the Happy Store, you’d walk inside. The bell would ding over your head.
And the first person you saw would be Miss Carla Waters, standing behind the cash register.
Miss Carla was about yea-high. Eighty pounds, soaking wet. Silver hair. A voice like a tuba. She was an older woman who smoked Camels. She always had one hanging from the corner of her mouth. Her husband worked up at the landfill.
The Happy Store had a small wire-metal rack of Dean’s Cakes.
There would be at least 10 or 12 cakes. Mostly carmel. Plastic cake domes. Small, unassuming, stick’em labels on the fronts.
The cakes were like eating a cake made by your grandmother. Sort of.
Namely, because everyone knew who Miss Dean was. She was Miss Dean, from Andalusia, just up the road.
People YOU knew actually knew HER. Your cousins knew her. Your mom’s friends knew her. You dated a girl whose mother went to grammar school with Miss Dean.
That’s who she was.
And although you never knew her, you knew her caramel cake. Everyone did.
Miss Dean’s seven-layer caramel cake had a familiar flavor. The kind of flavor that reminded you of something special. Something nostalgic. Her caramel cake tasted exactly like cherubs singing Handel.
You can still remember exiting the Happy Store, gingerly placing the prized cake on your…