Rural Louisiana. A tiny gas station. Rusted roof. An outdated Coors sign hangs in a window. The place looks like it’s being held together with duct tape and prayer.
I’m here on business. I’m a journalist, covering the arrival of summer in Louisiana.
There is an old guy sitting on a bench by the station door. He has a long gray beard. He wears a T-shirt which reads “Geaux Tigers.”
He greets me with a two-fingered wave, then spits into an empty Coke bottle.
“How y’all?” the man says.
“Good,” I reply.
He smiles his tooth at me.
“You ain’t from here,” he says, eyeing my license plate.
“No, sir. From Alabama.”
He spits. “Bienvenue en Louisiane,” he says.
I have no idea what this means, so I answer like an idiot by saying, “Okay!”
I’m at Pump Two, filling the van with gas. I’ve been on the road for a few days now, riding backroads.
The highways of the Bayou State are top shelf, among the best country byways in the nation. The sunshine in Louisiana is so pure it will make you
drunk.
A truck pulls up next to mine at Pump Three. The doors open. Out of the backseat come four kids in baseball uniforms. They are maybe 12-year-olds. Their accents are South Louisiana. Their baseball pants are painted with dirt. They reek of little-kid sweat and hormones.
And I’m remembering a time in my life when I lived in a cheap cotton outfielder’s uniform, surviving on a diet almost exclusively made up of Paydays and Coca-Cola products.
I remember a feckless youth spent with Little League teammates, devoid of seatbelts, riding in the beds of corroded Chevy pickups, piloted by grandfathers who smoked Prince Albert.
I’m done pumping gas now. I walk inside to pay because the pump doesn’t have a card reader. These are the kinds of pumps with spinning numbers.
Welcome to Louisiana.
The…