ABINGDON, Va.—The morning started off with rain and cool weather. This was followed by oppressive sunshine; the kind of heat that causes one to recall a Sunday school tale involving three Hebrew children.
“Is the weather always this unpredictable?” I asked an older lady on the sidewalk.
“Welcome to Virginny,” she said.
Her accent was more Tennessee than Virginny. Her hair was white. She wore a pink visor, Velcro shoes, and was eating an ice cream cone.
“Everybody always cusses the weather,” she said, licking her cone, “but nobody ever does anything about it.”
Abingdon is 15 miles from the Tennessee border. Nestled in the Appalachian Mountains. The lady has lived here all her life. I know this because she told me all about herself as ice cream dripped all over her shirt.
“Your ice cream is dripping on your chest,” I pointed out.
“Why are you looking at my chest?” she said, taking another lick.
We stood on Main Street. It was like entering the 1920s. Brick sidewalks. Old street lights. Antique houses. Hanging
ferns. Church spires.
There are no chain restaurants on Main, everything is independently owned. In a way, it is almost jarring to see no Hardee’s. No Starbucks. No Dunkin’.
“We have more restaurants per capita than New York, San Francisco, or New Orleans,” the lady said. “We are proud of that.”
Abingdon doesn’t have many capita. About 8,000 live here. So it only took 34 restaurants to earn this culinary distinction. But still.
“We’ve worked so hard to keep this town frozen in time. We have a lot of people who move here because Abingdon is the way our country used to be.”
Her shirt now looked like a fresh Jackson Pollock painting.
The town does look and feel like a snapshot of Americana. The way all small towns once were before Walmart came onto the scene. In this city, one gets the feeling that…