The sailboats of Nafplio gently rock in the sunlight. They creak against their dock lines, tugging, as if trying to liberate themselves. The gulls are singing. The scent of the sea is strong. Pungent even. Like the seafood department of Winn-Dixie.
A church bell tolls.
I pass the church. The church is Agia Sophia, a Greek Orthodox building believed to date back to the Byzantine period. This building is old, predating the birth of Cher.
I am struck by this building. This structure may have been here centuries before the Protestant Reformation. Before the Fourth Crusade. Before a guy named Columbus reached America. Before the Internet. This is ancient Christianity, up close.
On the front stoop is an older man in a long black tunic. He has a bushy white beard. He is sweeping the steps with a broom. This must be the parish priest, I’m thinking. The “pápas.”
Evidently, priests handle their own brooms in Greece.
Or perhaps he is a monk. Which could make sense, too. There is a monastery not far
from here in the village of Aria. The monastery is home to six nuns who lead a life of contemplation. I’ve been thinking about nuns a lot lately. Particularly one I met on a bus outside Athens.
The priest sees me walking the street alone, and he waves.
“Kaliméra,” he says. At least I think that’s what he is saying. Which is “Good morning.” Or possibly, “Good day.” Or perhaps, “I like cheese.”
No way to know for sure. I don’t speak Greek.
I return the wave and smile. But I have no idea what to say back. So I say one of the only four Greek words I know: “Efcharistó.” Which is a way of saying thank you.
…