The sun has risen in Greece, but the Grecians haven’t. I am walking Nafplio’s quiet streets, alone in the cool of morning. Most shops are closed. And I am followed by cats.
Nafplio has hundreds of feral cats. Maybe thousands. They are everywhere. In every nook and hollow. And each morning there seems to be even more.
“I don’t know how many stray cats we have,” says one embittered shopkeeper who is unashamedly anti-cat. “I think maybe we have a million cats. No way to know for sure.”
He’s right. Cats don’t sit still for census takers. Cats won’t even sit still for other cats.
Nevertheless, the old storekeeper doesn’t represent the majority. Nafplio is evidently full of cat people. There are food and water bowls all over town. There are cat beds and cat treats everywhere. There are cat people galore.
You can spot cat people from a mile away. Because, of course, there will be cats around them.
Which is why the cats feel comfortable here. They do not run and hide.
They live in a perpetual state of freedom. They chase each other openly. They play tag in the streets. Leap from the hoods of parked cars. Recline in the sunlight. Sprawl in the middle of the walkways. Lick themselves. They purr, paw, parade, perch, and preen.
They sit prettily on the doormat as you pass by a closed shopfront, giving you a death stare.
Cats have a talent for knowing who does and doesn’t like them. They can glance at a person and just know whether you’re a cat guy or not.
Moreover, they are unbothered by disdain. A cat will deliberately seek out a self-professed cat-hater, rub its feline body against that person’s legs, and either win that…
