There is something about this part of Florida. There is a certain feel to it, the closer you get to the Atlantic Ocean. Maybe it’s the cashiers at rural gas stations who call you “sugar” even though they are still in high school.
Or it could be the American flags in the abandoned field, next to the giant crucifix made of hay bales. Or the large sign next to a little country church that reads: “Body Piercing Saved My Life.”
I drive through Starke, I pass a band of Hari Krishnas standing at the traffic light. A bald man in a white tunic is playing bongos, another is playing the kazoo.
A woman knocks on my vehicle window. She looks just like my aunt Eulah, only she wears a sari and facepaint.
“Hey, sugar,” she says. “Blessings upon y’all.”
“Thank you, ma’am,” I say.
“You want a flyer?”
“Why not.”
“Have a nice day, sugar.”
I am not interested in Hari Krishna, but this woman looks like
she could be kin. When I look at her, I cannot shake the idea that I am talking to my aunt Eulah.
The same aunt who I once stayed with for an entire summer. And when my cousin and I got caught placing an M-80 in the neighbor’s mailbox, she had to discipline me.
I never forgot that. She made me go into the yard and pick out my own hickory switch.
“My own what?” I said.
“You heard me, a hickory switch.”
“What does a hickory tree look like?”
“You’re walking on thin ice young man.”
I drive past a Christmas tree farm surrounded by free-range ostriches. Every few feet there are huge live oaks with Spanish moss in the branches.
Hampton is nice, so is Keystone Heights. Ever since Lake City, I have counted sixteen thousand Baptist…