Brantley, Alabama—it’s the Christmas season and Main Street is decorated. Red ribbons on posts, strings of pinery, wreaths.
A few days ago, it was almost seventy outside. Today it's going to snow in Alabama.
Welcome to the South.
Muddy trucks ride through the center of town. Livestock trailers carry horses. A truck with seven thousand chicken crates on back.
I’m eating at Michael’s Southern Foods—the only eatery in town.
“Some weather,” says an old timer, sipping iced tea.
“Damn sure is,” says another.
“Yessir, saw all’em cattle was layin’ down.”
“Damn sure was.”
Things move slow in Brantley.
This restaurant is no bigger than a living room. Old floors. Old tables. Old people.
I can smell smoked pork chops and cornbread.
There is a round table filled with loud-talking, white-haired men. Fellas wearing boots, camouflage, and handlebar mustaches. They are men who pronounce the word “tire” as “tar.”
Old Timer points to the table. “We call that “The Liars Table.”
“Damn sure, do.”
This place is so charming it hurts. And it’s among the last of its kind.
A place that still serves butterbeans with more bacon than bean. Collards that
sing. Hand-patted burgers. Onion rings big enough to use as halos in a nativity scene at the Baptist church.
Through the window, I see a woman crossing the street. She’s heading for the restaurant.
Old Timer beats her to the door. He holds it open, then tips his cap to her.
You don’t see hat-tipping anymore.
But then, this place is the old world. That's because this cafe has been going since the early forties—serving almost the same menu.
“Don’t see a need to change,” says Michael, the owner. “Just want people to eat and be happy.”
And that's what he does. It’s mostly locals who eat here. Some warm a chair every day of the week.
Even during the threat of Alabamian snow.
“All I've ever done is…